After I returned to Bangalore from Kodaikanal, I headed out the next night to Cochin, in Kerala. Essentially taking back-to-back 12 hour bus journeys. [note: not recommended]
I booked a sleeper bus, meaning I would be lying flat on this ride. Unfortunately, as I have realized in quite a few situations thus far... India is not built for tall people. I couldn't fit in my bunk! So, I slept crumpled up, like an old newspaper... or at least I pretended to.
Day break caught my eye out the window, about an hour left of the journey from this spot.
I jumped out of the bus and into a new, buzzing world. I am to meet Bevan, Eliza, the Littles, Anne, Coner, Rick, Rick, and Carolyn somewhere known as Kuzhupilly Beach House on Vypin island. Immediately bombarded in a typical fashion by auto drivers as my foot hit the pavement, I indulged and asked just how much it might be to travel to this Vypin island. When I was quoted the over-the-top price of 800 rupees, the conversation abruptly ended.
I took a stroll down the street and passed a hole-in-the-wall kitchen. I walked by, but then seduced by the aroma, turned back and walked in. I was given some pretty curious stares at first, and then a few more (along with some smiles) as I devoured my Kerala parathas and egg curry using only my right hand. I have to admit, I am getting use to the whole neglect-the-left-hand thing.
I saw someone wearing a Manchester United jersey, so I took my chances and decided he might know some English, at least enough to point me in the right direction. I did get that much, 'walk down (pointing), right (hand motion)... bus to 'high court'... 'boat to Vypin' ... I followed instructions, packing myself into the first fresh can of sardines that I saw (...the bus), and surely enough, I soon came to the ferry.
The 6 rupee bus ride dropped me just where I needed to be. I asked the first guy I saw how to get to the ferry, he spoke perfect english and was going there himself. We chatted along the way, he was telling me how Cochin is a port city, and his job is the scouting out of land to build new ports. When we made it to the ferry I was a bit confused, as it was only 2 rupee. Let's see... 8 vs 800? hmm...
As we gently putted along the Arabian sea, the man pointed out boats and docks... he was particularly fond of this boat, and the dock for Dubai.
From here, I was dropped on Vypin island. Now my task was to find out how to get to the beach house. Again, autos swarmed. '300rupee' I was quoted for the last leg of the journey, I didn't like the sounds of that, and sought out a local bus which would drop me near where I wanted to go. 14 rupee.
This bus went to Cherai beach, which turns out to be just after Kuhzupilly beach. I saw the sign 2km - Kuhzupilly and asked the bus to stop, I jumped out and started walking.
About one kilometer into the walk on a small street surrounded by water, an auto drove by and stopped next to me. He asked if I needed a ride. I said Kuhzupilly beach house? He said 35 rupee, I had 32 in my pocket at that time, an agreement was had.
I made it! It took three busses, a boat, a little walking, and an auto, but I made it. When I arrived I was greeted by the group as people were about to embark out on all sorts of different journeys. It was Eliza's birthday today, and her cousin and family made it out to India for the festivities as well! They were staying down the street. After wishing Eliza a happy birthday and catching up with friends, I decided I would stay for a few hours and relax after my long journey... seeing I was only 500 feet from the beach.
Beach Road Beach Road
A quick walk to the beach...
I felt like I was back in San Diego! The beach was sandy, and the water was inviting!
...
and my first touch of the Arabian Sea!
I swam around for quite a few hours, feeling right at home. When I swelled up like a prune, I decided it was time to go for a little walk around the area, and came across this guy. He was a chatter-box, but I told him I didn't speak bird.
When I got back, I lounged around the beach house as everyone else slowly came back.
Sunset
We all cleaned up a bit and then headed over to Melissa's (Eliza's cousin) house.
♪ If you like pina coladas... ♫
For dinner, delicious pasta and salad was prepared. There were 17 people, which means lots and lots of pasta was prepared.
lé chef.
We ate, drank and were merry. It truly was a fun time and everyone enjoyed everyones company. When the time was right, we took to the beach for a birthday bonfire!
Apparently, we stayed out a little too late, and our autos that were waiting left us! Meaning the most of us had a nice little 3-4km wobble home after the festivities ended.
The next day I took to the carom board. What a game! The chef, Sujimon, and Mr. Kuzhupilly were experts. I was trained well, and found myself able to keep up by the 3rd game or so. This was played by many over the next few days, a lot of fun!
Made out of coconut!
As the majority wanted to stay and lounge for the day... Rick, Riccardo, Carolyn and myself decided to head out to an old palace/museum, Thripunithura.
[side note: Sujimon, the chef at the beach house, told us a long story about how his family use to be the Royal Emperors that ruled Kerala, then his family was murdered in cold blood, and the kingdom stolen. His grandfather was 10 years old at the time, and left alive. Everything in the palace we were going to was pillaged, and the history of how things came to be, recreated]
(this is the back of a truck)
The steps...
Ricks head is in the bottom right, Riccardo and Carolyn up in front on the right.
H2O
the royal throne!
The palace had some good sights, it was made into an archeological museum, with old stone tablets and carving dating back as far as 2500BC! In fact, one of the stone animals from 2500BC had a piece of string going from the head into the back. At first glance, I thought it was broken and someone fixed it with string. At second glance, I realized that the string could be pulled, and the head would bob up and down! Can you believe that?! 4500 years ago!!!... The first bobble head doll!
T-REX!
We had a good day, and packed in it to reach back at the beach house for dinner and new years eve festivities!
I am just an ordinary bus...
Christmas star!
This is the dinner table, I am pretty positive I just reached up with the camera and took pictures... as neither of the following two contain the entire table! Either way, lots of good people! :)
Mr. Kuzhupilly got us a cake!
"Eliza Group"
We rang in the new year on the balcony listening to the waves and each others stories. Everyone called it a night fairly early, leaving Riccardo, Carolyn, myself and Sujimon out talking until the wee hours in the morning.
New Years Day! I woke up at sunrise, and made my way to the Arabian sea. My first action being a dolphin dive into the pristine water. I waded around as the soft sun danced on the water around me. Riccardo soon joined, and then we met up with Rick and Carolyn to carry out our plans of backwater boating (plans in which we had no other eager companions).
The 4 of us headed to the local bus station, as we had about a 2 hour journey to the town of Alleppey. It took a longer morning start than we wanted, as we had a long trip to the bus station, and then had to scavenge like vultures for food! Either way, we arrived in Alleppey around 1pm. Almost immediately we had someone offering a boat to us, we kept cool and took many other offers before we were certain we were getting a great price (we did).
Off we go...
Carolyn, Rick and Riccardo
(I would have known the drivers name two weeks ago!... bah)
It was beautiful. The leaves falling in the water. The reflections. The colors. The ambiance.
The open water...
Serenity...
It was fun, we toured the canals for 3 hours, and then headed back to shore.
The plan was to catch a showing of Kathakali, the traditional Keralan dance. The makeup started at 630pm, and the show started at 730pm. The dancers get intensive makeup done, painting the majority of their faces green, with large eyes, large lips, and paper added to the chin to make the appearance larger. The dancers are thought to become god-like during the performance, the largeness is thought to correspond with godliness. A 'Larger-than-life' sort of mentality. The dancers act out scenes from the Hindu traditions, they do not speak, but rather use a series of hand motions, facial expressions and movement to tell the story. There is someone playing the drums, singing, and occasionally narrating as well.
But, plans are meant to change, we just couldn't make it in time. The two hour journey back took almost three. We were attempting to just slide in for the 730 start time, when we ran into this...
A giant carnival was taking place in the middle of the city to celebrate the new year! Serendipity strikes!
We soon became lost in the sea of people, there were parade floats lining the streets and steadily marching downward. I don't know how it happened, but I ended up walking next to the floats, rather than behind the thick line of people that were standing waiting for the parade to pass by. Rick, Riccardo and Carolyn followed suit and we literally were able to not only by pass the huge crowds, but so closely that we could reach out and touch the floats. I was asked once if I was 'press', instead of responding I took pictures and acted busy. It probably helped that all of us had cameras out and firing!
Julius...
Gandhi...
There were many floats, but the above two were my favorites.
It was now too late to think about catching the Kathakali performance, so we opted to get some food instead. We found a place called 'Marina', right on the water. We feasted on fish dishes, prawns, and Kerala parathas. A great dinner to seal the first day of the new year!
Before I left, I had emailed a professor that lives in Cochin, who I met at a conference in Bangalore. I told him I was coming, and he replied that he had a place for me to stay. I told him I wasn't sure if I would be needing a place, as my friends had rented a beach house. Though as it turns out, I would take him up on this offer for my 3rd and 4th night in Cochin, as the beach house was getting rather expensive. I met up with Rajan on New Years night, and he showed me where I would be staying.
There was an extra room at the De Paul Institute of Management Development, it was simple, and simple was all I needed. Yet, little did I know, one of the window panes failed to have a glass. What ensued was one of the most restless nights of my life as I was constantly impaled by the lances of mosquitos. I woke up with something resembling chicken pox, and arranged for a mosquito net the following night.
'Father Thomas', who created the school, met with me at the crack of dawn, coming into my room while I was still snoozing! I think this was his plan all along, as one of his first requests was for me to 'speak to the students'. Before collecting my thoughts to realize that I was at a management school, and I study the brain, I naively agreed. Oh, and can you do it in 3 hours? Sure!
... after a little brain storming, I decided I would speak about something everyone could relate to, and bring it into something that I actually felt I knew what I was talking about. I called the talk ''Social Networks to Neural Networks''. Catchy, I know. The whole thing was done off the top of my head, and funny enough, the students were engaged and loved it! Most of them had not learned about the brain, ever, so they were incredibly intrigued when I started out on the associated functions. Not to mention the whole tie in with social networking perking some ears up.
A particular group of students came up to me after, along with Father Thomas and another faculty member to speak longer. I ended up grabbing lunch with them, and accepted their offer to be shown around.
I don't remember all of their names, but...
... Subash (in white), Fabin, Ariff, ...
These guys wanted their picture taken as I was admiring the newly made road!
Take 1
Take 2
I spent quite a bit of time roaming around a book store before the Kathakali performance I was to catch at 730 started. I found a few good reads, and a great little note that fell out of one of the older books...
"I shall pass through this world but once. Any good therefore that I can do or any kindness that I can show to any human being, let me do it now. Let me not defer or neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again."
When I arrived at the Kathakali place, I was the first one there, meaning I sat front and center!
Unfortunately, my camera died for the rest of the trip after that picture! But, I did get a picture of a Kathakali dancer with full costume during the New Years carnival.
After the Kathakali performance, Rajan, along with Father Thomas, picked me up to go eat dinner. They took me to a local place that had incredible food. Kerala is especially known for their coconut usage, this resulted in one of the best coconut chutneys I have had to date! Wow! Once dinner wrapped up, I took in a good night sleep, free from the terrors of the mosquitos as I deeply snoozed under my safety net.
The next day I headed out early, caught a bus to Vypin, and spent the day at the beach house with everyone. And of course, engaged in much swimming at the beach. Caroms were played, laughs were expressed, and good talks were had. Slowly... people started heading down their own ways. I said my goodbyes, and made my way into town to catch a bus back to Bangalore.
... and this concluded my Holiday Adventures.
