The rain came and came. I certainly did not have the proper tent for this weather, the rainfly worked perfectly, however the moments in between taking off the rainfly and taking the poles out to collapse the mesh tent and fold it would leave the inside vulnerable for at least a good 30 seconds, and that is if I were working at NASCAR pitstop speed. However, it seemed like this is what I was going to have to do. I decided that I would pack everything up inside of the tent and be ready so that if a brief quell came I would burst out of the tent and strip it down as fast as possible. I played the movements out in my mind; first I would have to take the tie-downs up, and as I rotated around the tent I could simultaneously unclip my rainfly, next would come a quick folding of it, popping the poles out of place, then folding the tent over so that the rain wouldn’t go through the mesh but instead hit on the bottom, I would then fold the tent and place it inside of the rain cover fold then stuff it into my stuff sack, and lastly I would collect the poles and pack it all away. Well, the idea was there but the rain was not letting up. I decided that I should use this time to modify my water pouch, I had with me the Sawyer Mini Water Filter, which has a 0.1 micron hole system to filter bacteria from water. I read online before my trip about how one could place this in-line on a water pouch, so I took out my multi-tool and hoping that it would all work out: cut my hose. I plugged in the Sawyer to both ends, and lo and behold I now had an in-line water filter! Great! This took some time, and after some more time, after eating and a bit of reading, I decided that I would count to 60 seconds and if the rain let up during this time at all I would explode out of the tent and tear it down, and if it didn’t let up, well, I would leave the tent anyway at the 60 second mark. Around the 30 second mark I heard a brief respite from the storm, and as planned, I burst out of the tent and began to take it out with pre-orchestrated movements, saving me quite a bit of time and therefore wetness. After it was packed away, I took another moment to grok where I slept the night before, and then headed onward and upward through the forest canopy.
Soon I came to a sign which described the route I still had to walk in a bit more detail. I saw there was something like a wildlife zoo up ahead, it wasn’t exactly on the route, but it wasn’t exactly out of the way either. I was studying a route to go along the zoo while still in the right direction when I heard “Eric?!”. Hearing my name was certainly not something I expected, and I turned around to see Nasuki! She decided to take the day to explore this very wildlife zoo as Chase had work that day. We chatted briefly, wished each other well and then went on our separate ways.
I dove into the forest and climbed higher and higher, keeping a visualization (and a photograph) of the route that I planned to take. A bit later, I found the fence line for the preserve and began to walk alongside it. Many animals were out grazing in the field, soaking in the nice drizzle the storm had amounted to. Then, almost expectedly, I see Nasuki again! We say hi, I took a photo of her with a moose in the background, and then once again we went our separate ways.
I walked for some time through this forest, coming across various via-ferrata type portions, winding upward and upward through switchbacks. Being as my technique to string the switchbacks together and walk directly up had worked before, I tried it again. This time, however, things did not pan out so smoothly. I didn’t find the trail again for quite a long time, and when I did find it, I was a bit disoriented as to the direction I should go since the whole time I was within trees, turning back and forth. I decided to go left, but after about 5 minutes, I had a sinking feeling that I was going the wrong way, so I simply turned and began to walk in the other direction.
It turns out this was a good decision, and I soon got one of my first sights out of the trees toward where my destination resided… way up the mountain. The trail hugged the mountainside weaving in and out of the forest, sometimes with chains to hold onto for the less sure-footed. Soon I came to a rushing stream that came from somewhere up above, and simultaneously two people emerged going in the opposite direction. I inquired about how far along the next water source would be, and they said it took them well over 2 hours to get to this point and they had been walking steeply downhill. I thanked them for the information and then proceeded to give my newly designed water pouch its first test run in the wild!
The water was icy and delicious, and gave me a good pick up to keep trekking up this mountainside. The trail carved itself along, giving amazing wide open views of the backs of mountain ridges I had come from the day before. It seemed as though the trail would go forever onward, I had already climbed up a brutal 1200 meters straight, and as I went on, the storm began to pick up once again as well. Fog and rain began to encroach on the trail. I was thoroughly soaked, dripping even. Just then, a small refuge popped out of the skyline, and I sought it out to enjoy some lunch and dry conditions.
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| Looking back on the trail... |
The hosts of Refuge de Bellachat were a sweet lady and her hired help of two young guys, perhaps 16 and 21 years old. I asked if it would be okay to come in and have lunch inside, they obliged and told me that I could leave my wet things in the shed next door and to change into dry clothes before coming in. I did so but told them that I had no other change of pants, they chuckled and invited me inside. I took a seat at a booth in the corner and began to read and write a bit. They kindly gave me hot water so that I could brew some tea that I had with me, and I ate the rest of the bread and cheeses that I had with me as well. These things were very comforting.
My plan was to just defrost a bit, and then get going again, but in looking at the map and at the time, the reality that I would not be able to complete the entire circuit set in. The reality that my trip would not be a circle, but somewhat of an open “C” with many squiggles going to and from the main line. This is where the title of my story comes in: Ensō. The concept expresses when the mind is free to let the body create, and it is a practice by which one draws or paints in a fluid stroke the shape of a circle. Two things can occur: one would be that of a circle, complete and closed, to practitioners this would symbolize perfection in the sense of Plato’s perfect form, while an unclosed circle on the other hand allows for movement and development. It is said to relate to Zen practitioners “wabi-sabi” or the beauty of imperfection. It were here where I recognized that my circle was that of the latter case, it won’t be closed, it wasn’t perfect, but it certainly was beautiful and I have developed so much through the experience of making it. In time, perhaps my perfect circle will come, but for now, I am very content with the circle I drew. I wrote in my journal: There is something about the trail, something about walking… it’s simple, and in its simplicity it is beautiful. Put one foot in front of the other, over and over again, you will see beautiful things, adventures await…”
I was taken out of my thoughts with another unexpected occurrence. Michelle, Jess, Nicole, Sarah, and Rossy (the Australians/New Zealander) came into the refuge to seek a reprise from the weather outside, which had turned even worse. What are the chances of that? They were hiking in the other direction when we first met on my second day! We chatted for a bit, and they had a bit of hot drinks and food. In the midst of this, one of the two workers came and asked if I wanted a spot to sleep as there was only one left. Upon hearing this, the Aussies suggested that I take him up on it as there wasn’t another shelter for some time and the weather outside was clearly dreadful. So, I did. I was able to give a bit of money just for the shelter, instead of purchasing dinner and breakfast as well. With this decision made, I headed briefly upstairs to lay out some of my items to dry and collect what I wanted with me for the rest of the evening. I went back down with a pile of books and journals. The Aussies soon headed out, and we said our goodbyes once again.
As dinner time approached, the area I was in began to fill with people and hanging wet clothes crowded amongst a single wood-fire heater. The lady nicely asked if I could move to another table to make room for the people, of course I did, but the set up was now a bit funny as the tables were in the shape of a horseshoe, and I was alone at a table at the top of the horseshoe with maybe 10-15 people on each side of me. A group consisting of three generations was directly to my left, and somehow the idea came to them and they asked me if I were a professional athlete. I laughed and said no, and we talked a little bit and then resumed our own activities. To my right I could hear the distinct German language, so when the opportunity presented itself I spoke with them a bit as well. There were some nice people in this hut tonight. Dinner came out, consisting of a variety of delicious looking things, though I did not gaze on them with envy because I was able to secure a bit more hot water and poured that into my pot with some potato flakes and went on happily enjoying my simple meal. Yet, much to my delight, one of the two guys brought me out a big bowl of Bolognese Spaghetti! MY OH MY what a treat! The others finished their courses, and another was brought out that resembled omelettes, and soon thereafter I was being offered what the others couldn’t eat: a platter filled with at least 5 portions from my left, and another platter with a portion on my right. I ate as much as I possibly could, being sure to sincerely thank the offerers. Lastly, dessert came out, and the same happened once again. It seems I was the only one who truly brought an appetite! :) I wrote two different things about this in my journal: 1) Peoples generosity is pleasing and encouraging. 2) I am so full. And happy.
Throughout the meal I planned what I would do on my final day of hiking, day 9, as day 10 would (hopefully) consist of me finding a way back to Geneva and then taking the train to Tübingen, where then I would board a plane early the next morning to the USA for a visit home. With this in mind, I had an epic, all-day hike planned that would take me well up into the ridge lines crossing glacier lakes and via-ferrata mountain sides. One of the two guys, who I wish I remembered his name, helped me with coordinating another “BlaBlaCar” (ridesharing) from Chamonix to Geneva! So, my plan after all the hiking was to end up in Argentiere, where Chase lives, because from there I knew I could easily make my way to the larger town of Chamonix. I managed to send Chase an email just before my phone died asking whether if I did end up there, if could I sleep on his floor. I hoped to somehow charge my phone for a few minutes and check for replies the next day. If that didn’t work out, I had a location where I would be able to camp that was nearby, I could make this decision tomorrow.
Feeling grateful for my night, I helped them clean up, and wrote a few more entries in my journal before heading in for sleep. I’ll leave you with two of them:
“One thing I’ve gathered from this adventure is that it feels so good to have your items and mind in order. Organization is such a joy. I love knowing exactly where my items are within my backpack. I love the confidence that comes with being able to address and speak to any person who crosses my path because I am so comfortable with myself and I intend to be as patient and helpful as humanly possible to each soul that may cross my path.”
“Remember, this trek is not about walking from one spot, making a circle, and arriving back at that spot. It is about the journey, the experiences, the people who you have met and the ones who you have helped on their way, whether indirectly or directly. It is about how much you grew, how you challenged yourself, how you came to terms with your own fragility, with your own humanity. It is about the mountains, the trees, the rivers and streams, the waterfalls, the glaciers, the wind, the rain, oh, the rain, and also the sun, the trail under your feet, and knowing, that through it all, for the entire journey, the trail is always under your feet… finding out where the trail leads is your responsibility, it is your opportunity.”
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This is the eighth post of a series of 10 from the Tour du Mont Blanc trek I did in August 2015.
Check back within the week for the next post!
For more adventures, writing, photographs, and even video go to my website: www.InTentsAdventure.wix.com/Explore
Check back within the week for the next post!
For more adventures, writing, photographs, and even video go to my website: www.InTentsAdventure.wix.com/Explore
If you have any questions or comments, feel free to reach out to me!
Also, if you are interested in using one of my photographs, please reach out to me!
Thanks for reading,
Eric
Thanks for reading,
Eric
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