Ensō : A Walk around Mont Blanc --- Day 9 of 9

Ensō: Day 9

I was one of the first to awake from the 22 person bed and make my way downstairs. I took down my rainfly and a pair of socks which I had left to dry overnight and packed them away in my bag. Since this was to be my last day, and a long one, I decided to inquire into whether I could purchase some bread. Generously, they brought me some sliced bread with jam and honey. I added my jar of peanut butter to the spreads and as I felt the food translate into energy, I enjoyed a great start to my day.

As I was finishing up breakfast, a lady sat next to me who was now starting her second day on the trail. She told me that she had overestimated herself, and being her first day was my long trek upwards yesterday, I could understand her concern. I offered words of encouragement -and since she did not necessarily have to fit the trek in within a certain timeline- we looked at the map together and began to plan a manageable route for her to take. After some conversation with her, I decided it was time to continue on my own way. 

I took my dishes into the kitchen, and also asked if they would mind filling my thermos with hot water so that I could have some tea for the journey. The lady running the refuge took my hands and gave me the most genuine smile, she said I was very “simpatico” and followed that with “very, very nice”, and told me I was welcome back any time. I felt that she considered me family. I wish I could have transcribed her eyes onto paper as she said these things, filled with love and understanding, these great character compliments raised my spirits and gave me such a positive outlook as I said goodbye to my friends at Refuge de Bellachat.

I walked over to the shed, slipped on my damp clothing, and stared directly at the mountains across who seemed to curiously peak out of the grey sky as if they gingerly slumped off the morning fog like a blanket, but then decided to sleep in the warmth of the clouds just a little longer. Yet, these mountains were the ones I had walked across in the days past, todays adventure would take me higher into the mountain range and across the spine to L’index. 

The path weaved upward and upward, I could make out the next few sections through the fog, but nothing farther. A light rain accompanied me throughout the day. The terrain became completely rocky, with patches of green grass holding together the stones like glue. I walked upward for some hours before reaching a small lake, on which raindrops created an endless supply of concentric circles.

Some time later, I reached the top of the mountain. Here a plateau gave sight to countless rock towers which offered their way of guidance. I followed them and soon came to the entrance Réserve Naturelle Aiguilles Rouges, which although had a sign, did not change the landscape. I wound around the mountains like a string, cloaked within the day. All I could see was the trail just in front of me, I could see my immediate steps, and what awaited in the next few steps. The rest of the day was vacant, ready to be imbued with future experiences.

At times, the trail led through lush grass in which wild flowers sprouted; others it gave sight to extraordinary things; still more it seemed to disappear completely at times, only beaded with cairns pointing the way; always it showed itself slowly, offering itself in the way a fern unfurls;  infrequently I could see beautiful and powerful jagged mountains contrasted against the pure backdrop; in its pockets rich grass hung draped with crystal pearls. The trail hugged the mountain, wrapped tightly on its side, providing a narrow ribbon on which to follow. Soon, I found myself face to face with a larger cairn on Col Cornu, it was adorned with a sign: Lacs Noirs was close.

See the small pink circles? That's the trail...

Steeply I followed a trail down into the unknown, the layer of fog hovered just over my head, at times dipping below and encompassing me in its sea. Then, as if all at once, the trail was gone and in my sight was a mirror of water. I felt compelled to go directly toward it, climbing down rock faces and traversing the terrain as if a moth to a flame. I approached a small rock wall and simultaneously my sight of the Lac was occluded. I knew it was close, waiting patiently just on the other side. Carefully, I selected a route and ascended. And there it was, just down below a deep grey harbored a glacier blue. As I continued to get closer, its size stayed hidden from me as if the water stretched and blended into the horizon. I sat on a rock and gazed outward, eating the rest of my food that did not have to be cooked. 

From my map, I saw that there were more Lacs nearby, and being without a trail I decided to simply walk along the border of the water in front of me. The path was not set, and my feet brought me over small streams and weaved me between smaller collections of water sat deep in the hillside. The Lac was endless. I skirted a rocky outcrop which tumbled into the edges of the Lac.  I soon found myself on a thin peninsula of rock, in the distance a marmot cry shrieked and echoed as if a chime was struck. I looked up to the empty grey sky, around to the rock and water which covered my view, and realized that I was completely by myself. My footsteps and the subtle shifting of my pack against my jacket, my breath and the slow lapping of the dense air against my ear were the only sounds in this world. Truly, at this moment, no one knew where I was.

I soaked it in, I could walk in this direction forever it seemed, but the path began to become overtaken with water. My feet were soon completely wet throughout, my boots not withstanding the elements in which they were in. I circled back, retracing some of my steps to the cairn, nearby I freshly saw a bright yellow dot: the way the L’index. 

I began to climb up the stones, picking each step and diligently connecting the dots. I knew I was climbing higher into the fog as ridges of mountaintops once again appeared, their summits protected by a pack of ibex. Respectfully I continued onward, the ibex watching my every step, understanding if I knew what they did. Once I passed, they skipped away like a rock across a lake, while ahead of me rose a set of iron bars attached into the crust of the rock. My feet found positive ground as I crafted my way up. I was now at L’index, and the other side is where the rest of my route resided. 

—

In the next hours I would walk across ridges of mountains, following them upward and then back down to the foot of yet another climb. My energy was waining. I had not eaten a proper meal since breaking the fast with the bread in the morning, my mid-day stop was but a snack. I slugged forward, my eyes following every foot I stepped. Then I saw them: gummy bears! Three sat directly on the rock, while one hung suspended within a bed of water bejeweled grass. I scooped the latter one up and placed it on my tongue as I continued to slot my way up the mountain. It was one of the most delicious things I had ever tasted. The sugar rushed through my body as if pure energy. Up ahead, I could not believe my eyes, two more laid patiently on the rock. Again, I retrieved these gifts which helped me gain the strength to make it to the top. I turned back and gazed at the beautiful mountain lined sky, knowing that this may very well be the last time I’d be on these ridges for this journey. Poetically, my second and final camera battery closed its eyes sent my camera to reflect on its 9 days of experience. 

—

Once I reached the ridge line, I could not see very far in front of me, but a sign for Le Flégère pointed up a gradual dirt road. I followed it and soon I could hear the working of what sounded like a chair lift. My visibility was virtually non-existent, the sound was so powerful now that I found myself walking toward the origin. Empty chair after empty chair wheeled around the base. I walked up to them and a man approached me, surprised, and inquired what I am doing. I asked him about the best way to get to the path to Tre-Le-Champ and Argentière, as at this point they were in the same direction. I had not yet been able to check my messages to determine whether I would be camping or staying with Chase and Natsuki. The man said that I would simply follow the chair lift down these large dirt roads, which will become ski routes in a few months time when they will be covered in snow. He told me that there would be another station for yet another chair lift farther down the mountain. Being unenthused about walking down roads under a chair lift, I inquired if I could ride this one to that station, he said I could, but I would need a ticket and pay 22 euros. I looked at him in disbelief, almost laughing at the situation. I asked simply, “Can I just ride it for free?”. He told me to wait, walked into his small office, came back out and let me onto the lift. Within seconds, I began to descend through the wet sky on a metal wire. I was beginning to become drenched with water, I pulled out my umbrella and placed it in front of me like a shield. The cold metal chilled me, and I simply waited for the ride to reach the destination. 

Upon exiting the chairlift, I found myself at a slightly bigger station which contained a bathroom, and a small café for snacks and recharging. I went inside and saw that there were places where I could charge my phone. I also saw there was food. I purchased two sandwiches, a bag of chips, and a bar of chocolate. Refueling while recharging, I took off my wet socks and boots and let them do whatever sort of drying they could outside under a small roof. My phone soon had enough power to turn on, and it greeted me with a place to stay in Argentière. After finishing up my food, I asked the man who was working how to get to Argentière. He told me in broken English to continue down this road, and when it splits, to take the right path. I thanked him, bought one more bag of chips, and then reluctantly put on my wet foot ware and hoped I would take the right path.

I followed what seemed to be ski routes for some time, stuck on the right hand side, and then came to an entrance into the woods. I darted inside and instantly began to descend. The trail crossed small wooden bridges and was completely emerged in the forest. A crossroads appeared; left to Tre-le-Champ, right to Argentière, only the right path had an additional sign, though in French it seemed to be indicating they were felling trees. I decided that no one would be felling trees at this time and in such weather and proceeded to Argentière. 

It so happens that the fog did not reach its way down here, and I could soon see the rooftops of the small city. My path then changed from one of dirt and rock and grass to one of asphalt. I felt overwhelmed even in such a small place, people sat outside eating, or walking from here to there. I saw a church tower and a bridge and walked toward them, thinking they would be good markers. I found myself sitting along side of a river, taking my shoes off, and waiting to have contact with Chase once again in order for us to meet. I had written him a message describing where I was. Meanwhile, a man walked by me, I decided to inquire whether or not he knew of the place where Chase works. He did, and gave me direction on how I could get there. I decided to write Chase another message telling him I would go to his work. Standing outside the building, I got a reply and I soon saw Chase running down the street toward me. We greeted each other, and then he told me that he is in a bit of a rush because it is the time of the day where he can eat for free at his work, and him and Natsuki were doing so, and then asked if I minded they finish their dinner. There was no problem at all, I went across the way to a small shop in which a man who may or may not be from Turkey and I immediately started an enjoyable bartering process. Outside his shop he had a box of oranges, which appeared to me to be completely overpriced. I jokingly asked if that price was for one orange or for the whole box. He chuckled and told me to come inside. Inside of his shop he had an array of cheeses and meats and oils and probably many other things I am failing to remember. I do remember everything being too expensive for my taste. I mentioned this to him and he then began to talk about this chicken he had, which was the last one for the day that he could not sell, and he would give it to me for say 16 euro. A deal, he said! I looked at it, and in all fairness that might have been a deal, but I talked him down to 7 euros with the old, hey this is what is in my pocket trick. He told me he accepted, but only on the condition I don’t tell people the deal we just made, this was a once in a store-life kind of deal. We laughed and shook hands, and he gave me a chicken and a stack of napkins. I found a spot outside and feasted like I hadn’t in days. 

After we had all eaten our dinners, Chase and Natsuki invited me inside. Graciously, they showed me where I could take a shower and where I could store some things for the night. Chase then inquired whether or not I would be up for going back over to his work, where we could all have a drink and talk. I obliged and we went to try a beer that Chase found particularly good. In all honesty, it was a taste I was not yet prepared for, but we took a seat at a table and chatted for some time while in the background someone was having a party, after all, he worked at a resort. Nine days may not seem like a long time, but being away from such things for nine days certainly highlights different aspects of them when one returns. After this drink, we all decided to call it a night. Back at their place, we spoke for quite a while into the night, and then ended it with a Japanese anime playing on Chase’s laptop. Of which, I must admit, I can recall almost nothing. My eyes blinked slower and slower, and soon, like my camera, it was time to rest. 

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This is the ninth post of a series of 10 from the Tour du Mont Blanc trek I did in August 2015.
Check back within the week for the next post! 
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Thanks for reading,
Eric